MOUNTAIN EXPEDITION ELBRUS - HIGHEST SUMMIT OF EUROPE

CAUCASUS & ELBRUS INFO

Mount Elbrus is the highest peak of the Caucasus massif located in Russia. It is only 2km from the natural border that separates Europe and Asia. Since that is located on the European side, is also the highest peak on the European continent. Elbrus is a two summit volcanic cone with saddle that divides the top of the Eastern summit high 5621m and Western summit 5642m high, making it the highest point of the European continent.

Location: Terskol, Caucasus massif – Russia, Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria
Transportation: Airplane, taxi
Accomodation:in private flats in Terskol, camps, tents in base camp and altitude camp
Start: 01. August
Minimum members: 5 (five)
Last date for join the expedition: 15 days prior to departure
Difficulty level: Moderate - Advance

NORTH CAUCASUS

North Caucasus, also known as Ciscaucas, located in the northern Caucasus region between Europe and Asia. The term is also used as a synonym for the North Caucasus economic region of Russia. Politically, the Northern Caucasus (as part of the entire Caucasus region), including the Russian republic in the northern Caucasus, as well as several regions of Georgia and Azerbaijan. As part of the Russian Federation, North Caucasus region includes, as seen from west to east, following the autonomous republics: Adigea, Kalmikaja, Karachai-Cherkessiya, Kabardino-Balkaria, North Ossetia, Ingushetia, Chechnya and Dagestan. In Georgia, the northern Caucasus includes the following regions: Tuset, Kevšureti and Kevi. Geographically, the North Caucasus comprises the northern and western slopes of the main regions of the Caucasus planinaskog region and parts of southern slopes to the west (to the river Psou). Predkavkaska steppe is often seen as part of the northern Caucasus, but the northern border of the geographic region considered Kuma-manic depression. Surrounded by the Azov Sea in the west and the Caspian Sea to the east.

KABARDINO – BALKARIA

Kabardino-Balkaria is a federal entity (Republic of) Russia, which is located in the northern Caucasus. The Republic is located in the northern Caucasus mountains, covers an area of 12,500 square kilometers, bordering with the province's autonomy and the Alanya North Ossetia, Karachai-Cerkez Stvaropolskim republic and the end, and with Georgia in the south. The highest peak of the province is Mount Elbrus (5642 m). Kabardino-Balkaria is located in the Moscow time zone. Capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria is Nalchik. Summit of Elbrus is located in the Bakshan Valley Autonomous Region.

BAKSHAN VALLEY

Baksan Valley is one of the most interesting and picturesque landscape of the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria. Mountain main road through this valley connects all the villages and towns with major centers such as Mineraln'ye Vody and Nalchik. At about 60 miles from the entrance to the town of Baksan Valley Baksan, there is a local administrative center, a mining town Tirniauz. In it there is a market, hospital and several shops. 18 miles away, is the village Verhni Baksan, where the merging of three major rivers - the Baksan, and Adirsu Kirtik. On the twelfth kilometer from the village Verhni Baksan Elbrus is the village, from where start Bakšanske evergreen forests. In this village there is a small store and post office. From this point on up through the valley are the main hotels and alpine camps. On the fifth kilometer from the village of Mount Elbrus, is the source of mineral water Narzan which attracts many visitors. To 1993. year., in the vicinity of the source is located a few bars that were destroyed by a large avalanche. Today this place is restored. 3 kilometers from the source Narzan is a large hotel and sports center Itkol. One kilometer away is the hotel Čeget, small markets and lift Anybody Čeget.Nedaleko of last resort is located in the Baksan Valley - Terskol village. Here is the main base of Russia's emergency services, post office, pharmacies, grocery stores and hotels. At 4 km from Terskola in the Bakshan valley is the starting point of gondola ends in Azau Elbrus.

ELBRUS 5642 m - highest summit of Europe

In the north of the main cornice of the Caucasus, the Russian republic of Kabardino - Balkaria, is bifid, 5642 meters high, Mount Elbrus volcanic cone. The eastern top of the mountain was first ispenjan Kabardinskog guide by Kilar, Young child, the 1829th year., who worked for the Russian military - scientific expedition. West, and little higher peak, was won in 1874. year., by Aki Sotaijeva Balkarijskog guide, who worked for a group of three English and one Swiss climbers.

Finally 19og century, the famous Russian military topographer Andrei Pashtukov tried several times to conquer the peak. His inability to be well acclimatised defeated all his attempts. Rocks that are found at an altitude of 4960 meters above sea level, near where he was forced to raise camp in one of his attempts, named after him (Paštukova rocks) to mark his contribution to research and learning about these mountains.

The 1929th year., built a small hut at an altitude of 4160 meters and is called the Priut 11 (which means a shelter for 11). The name was given because a scientific expedition jedanaestočlana previously used this place to set up camp. The name remained, and the 1932nd year., built a home with 40 seats in the cabin area. In the following years and made a shelter on a saddle between two peaks at an altitude of 5350 meters. Shelters were soon flooded with climbers and the next few years is the golden era of the Soviet mass mountaineering. The unexpected happened when suddenly in 1939. year., a large group of young and inexperienced climbers climb Elbrus tried to during the winter. During winter, strong winds completely blow all the snow from the upper slopes of Elbrus, leaving large areas of exposed ice. Going down (in good weather conditions) one member fell and began to slide down the ice. During the sliding poobarao everyone in the group cone. Many climbers have been killed by the klizajići smashed down the slope on the rocks Pashtukova.



Plans to build a futuristic hotel on Elbrus resulted in a large three-storied, metal mountain home, which was finally completed the 1939th year., at the site of past domestic Priut 11th Designing and building a home supervised by the architect and the assisted alpinisteNikolaja Popova Ferdinand Kropf, an Austrian who lived in the Soviet Union and who eventually became head of the Russian emergency services. Dom was able to accommodate 120 guests, had the power, the double hull resistant to wind and was completely waterproof.

In the period from 1959 to 1976. year., was designed and built section by section Elbrus cable car. The last section of the Mir station at 3500 m above sea level up to 11 Priuta never completed. There is a lift with seats that can transport people from the Mir station to the camp at 3800 meters above sea level Garabashi. From there, people can switch to Priut 11 or Pashtukova rocks by snow cats.

16 August 1998. year., a group of climbers cooked meal in the 11th Priutu Although Priut 11 have a capacity of 120 seats, there is only a small kitchenette with a gas stove which had four burners and was unable to meet the needs of all visitors. Therefore, the climbers used their own primus. When cooking them is broken primus, and began to leak large amounts of gas and a small fire broke out. In a panic, someone took the canister in which it is thought that water. However, there was a canister fuel. It ended by a 11 Priut completely burned. Today, the walls surrounding the burned piles of waste.

U leto 2001. god., počela je izgradnja novog doma ispod ruševina starog Priuta 11. Dom je završen 2003. godine., i dobio je ime Dizel Dom. Ovaj dom nije veliki poput Priuta 11, ali predstavlja odličnu bazu za početak osvajanja vrhova Elbrusa.

CLIMBING ROUTES ON ELBRUS

Western peak is the highest point bifid, massive, icy volcanic cone, and the highest point of Europe - Mt Elbrus. Asian continent and the border between Georgia and Russia lies along the main Caucasus ridge approximately 10 km south from the top of Elbrus. East peak, 5621 meters above sea level, lies about 1.5 km from the western tip and separated by a saddle height of 5416 meters. The remains of huts on the saddle you can see a few hundred meters south of the entrance to the saddle and bear witness to the great plans that have been created to develop a route to the top. Over 70 glaciers running down frozen cup with ice Elbrus area covers about 130 square kilometers. None of the peaks is not particularly difficult to climb, but you can start ups from different directions, but the most commonly used route is that it is used and the gondola lift to the camp Grabaši, where you can walk to the camp or ratracima Priut 11, where it continues to rise the top. Difficult access, adverse weather and large cracks in the glacier hinder other routes. In bad weather conditions, the effect of wind can knock down the temperature to 50 degrees Celsius. It is worth to note that due to bad weather conditions each year many people die on this mountain.

EASTERN SUMMIT 5621 m

The highest point of the eastern peak is located on the south side of a small crater, which is some 250 meters wide and is located at the top. The most common route is through the huts climb on the saddle (as well as for the western summit). From the hut the path climbs eastward from about 300 meters, then turns to the right over the snowy slopes past the pile of rocks and stones and leaves at the top of the salary (weight was 2A/2B ascent, 1-2 hours walk from the saddle; 6-8 hours walk from Priut)) the second adventure, the route approaches the mountain from the valley Irkačkat. This beautiful valley provides a nice and easy access to Elbrus and there are many good places to set up camp in the valley and on the edge of the ice cover. There are several good places to bivouac at 3800 meters above sea level and as well as 4500 m above sea level. From one of these camps can be up top with relative ease (2B, it is two days from 3800 to peak). Descent may be down the same route to be exercised over the saddle or climb down a well marked path to the Priut 11.

WESTERN SUMMIT 5642 m

West summit is a common route on Elbrus and is very well marked to the saddle. However, in bad weather or good GPS altimeter, map and compass are essential..  Most groups go by cable car station to station Mir Azau where most pedestrians go (one hour walk) to the camp at 3800 meters Grabashi. Above the camp Grabashi snow cat can lift up climbers to the Priut 11 or to the Pashtukova rocks. If you are going to walk from Garabashi to Priut 11 should be 90 minutes walk from Priuta 11 there are about 2 hours to Pashtukova rocks. From Pashtukova rocks between 3-4 hours to walk to the saddle and the saddle more than 4-5 hours to the summit. On this route there is no great danger unless the wind blows strong and when you take away the snow from the glacier and fall can slip and end up fatal.